Cheongchun GurakbuGrilled Beef Offal in the Mapo Galbi Alley, Teugyang and Daechang

Teugyang comes first, always

Of all the grilled beef offal, teugyang is my favourite. It's a cut from the cow's stomach, and grilled well it has a distinctive crisp, crunchy texture. That bite is why I reach for teugyang before gopchang or daechang.

Here too, that texture came through. Alternating it with the fatty, chewy daechang keeps it from getting monotonous.

What it looks like

Over a copper-colored wire grill, split-open teugyang lies flat, its pale pinkish inside brushed thinly with a red seasoning. Red charcoal glows beneath the grill. In the background, a plate of red meat that looks like yukhoe or liver, a soy dish and a yellow sauce, and a small bowl of clear soup sit on the table. A plate of onion is also visible at the upper left.

Menu words

• Teuk-yang is the thick, well-conditioned part of the yang, the first stomach of beef
• Daechang is beef large intestine, a fatty and rich cut
• Offal grill (naejang-gui) is beef offal grilled over charcoal

Inside the Mapo galbi alley, an offal specialist

Mapo has an alley where galbi and grill houses cluster together. Cheongchun Gurakbu sits inside it, but it leads with grilled beef offal rather than galbi. Teugyang and daechang are the signatures, though it isn't a one-note place — the menu is fairly wide.

Daechang, and a wide menu

Daechang is one of the mains too. It's filled with fat inside, so grilled it goes crisp outside and rich within. Beyond teugyang and daechang there are several cuts on the menu, which makes it easy to order to a group's taste.

Because it's grilled over charcoal, the taste is solidly above average. The sides run to several dishes, led by raw beef liver and omasum (cheonyeop). I finished with a bowl of mul-naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles in broth) and left full — the noodles weren't special, but they were decent enough.

I ate in the main room this time and it was quite loud. I'll have to check next time whether there's a private room in the back.

Worth knowing on a first visit

• It's a specialist in grilled beef offal. The headliners are teugyang (a cut from the cow's stomach) and daechang (large intestine).
• Teugyang, grilled well, has a crisp, crunchy bite; daechang is rich and chewy from the fat inside. There's almost no smell.
• Staff usually sear or grill it for you. You don't need to know how to grill.
• The sides include raw beef liver and omasum (cheonyeop) — a traditional Korean accompaniment. If raw liver isn't for you, just leave it.
• Not very spicy. The marinade is mildly spicy at most; you dip it in salt or a sesame-oil sauce.
• It's inside the Mapo galbi alley — close to Gongdeok Station (lines 5 and 6) and Daeheung Station (line 6).

This works well for you if

• ✅ Anyone who likes grilled beef offal like teugyang and daechang
• ✅ Anyone who enjoys the crisp, crunchy texture of teugyang
• ✅ Anyone after charcoal-scented grilled offal
• ✅ A group that wants to pick several different cuts
• ⚠️ Anyone wanting a quiet room — the main room is loud (private room unconfirmed)
• ⚠️ Anyone put off by the texture or fat of offal

Before you go

• Location — the Mapo galbi alley, Mapo-gu, Seoul. Several grill houses share the alley, so check the shop name on the map before you go.
• Ordering — teugyang and daechang are the signatures. With a group, mix cuts and add naengmyeon to finish.
• Seating — if you want to talk quietly, ask when booking whether there's a private room (I didn't check).
• Prices · hours · closing day — I didn't check. Check the map or call before you go.
• Coffee after — it's the same Mapo area, so once you're full of grilled offal, closing out at Fritz Coffee Dohwa works as a follow-up.