Hangang KkeopdegiGrilled Pork Skin Down a Quiet Mangwon-dong Alley

A block off the busy part of the neighborhood

Unlike the market or the cafe street in Mangwon-dong, this place sits a little apart from the action. The sign is big and bright enough to spot from down the alley, but if you're expecting a lively main street, it might come as a small surprise.

They do pork skin right

If you like kkeopdegi, this is worth a visit. The pork skin comes thick-cut and well-prepared, grilling up crisp on the outside and chewy inside. As a self-declared pork skin specialist, this one dish is the real deal.

Raw pork neck first, then the skin

Most people start with raw pork neck and move on to the pork skin. You fill up a bit on the neck meat first, then finish with kkeopdegi — a pattern similar to Mapo Sogeumgui, which I've also written about. Ordering both together works better than kkeopdegi alone.

What it looks like on the grill

Two large sheets of kkeopdegi lie flat on the open grill, browning. The seasoning has soaked into the surface and is bubbling, while kimchi and small cut pieces of meat sit along the edge of the grate. The table also holds a brown seasoning powder, cut chives and a stew.

There can be a wait

Evenings can mean a wait, worth keeping in mind. During busy hours you may need to line up, so it helps to go with some time to spare or be mentally prepared for it.

For foreign visitors

• Kkeopdegi is pork skin. It's the skin portion trimmed separately from pork belly and grilled on its own — the texture is the whole point
• Saengmoksal is raw, unseasoned pork neck, grilled directly on the tabletop grill
• The menu may not have English, so it helps to order by pointing at photos

Who this is for

• ✅ Anyone who likes kkeopdegi or wants to try it properly for the first time
• ✅ People who enjoy working from raw pork neck through to pork skin like a mini course
• ✅ Anyone who prefers a quiet alley vibe over a busy main street
• ⚠️ The texture of pork skin can take some getting used to
• ⚠️ Going in the evening? Expect a possible wait
• ⚠️ No parking, so public transport is the way to go