Jongno & Euljiro

Jongno & Euljiro runs from the veteran sundae-guk and LA-galbi houses of Euljiro 3-ga into the hanok dessert alleys of Ikseondong, with salt-grilled hagfish (kkomjangeo) thrown in. It pairs well: dinner at an old place — Sansu Gapsan for sundae-guk, Sigoljip for LA-galbi — then either soufflé pancakes at Dongbaek Yanggwajeom in Ikseondong, or grilled hagfish and soju until midnight at Gongpyeongdong Kkomjangeo by Jonggak Station. Euljiro signs are small, so go by the name.